An Esthetician’s Guide to Rebalance Overworked Skin
Skincare is all the rage these days, and with that comes more excitement around the buzziest new product promising to fix all your skincare woes, from acne to hyperpigmentation to fine lines. The problem? Most of these products will have at least one exfoliating agent, from AHAs & BHAs to retinoids, even sometimes an added physical exfoliating element. So when incorporating into a routine too fast or without the knowledge of how to layer with other products, most are unknowingly overdoing it.
As we know, exfoliation is great for treating a multitude of skin conditions, including but not limited to the big concerns listed above. But there’s one path the everyday skincare hobbyist is headed towards in adding these products to their routines if they’re not careful: overworked, over-exfoliated skin.
While exfoliation is great, there’s still limits to it depending on your individual skin type. This is different for everyone, but the average person (i.e. not a trained esthetician) is often unaware of the signs of over-exfoliation, and is more likely to find themselves with skin that’s worse off than before they added in said product. What you’re left with is a damaged acid mantle and skin that is even tricker to treat.
A damaged acid mantle presents itself as dehydrated skin that can trigger an overproduction of oil in an attempt to lubricate itself. This can, as you may have guessed, create even more acne for those acne-prone types. It can also create more sensitive/reactive skin that cannot tolerate the products it once did. Maybe the most frustrating of all is that it can look tight, shiny, more aged, flaky, and extremely textured. And you can’t even rely on your trusted exfoliating agents to fix it, because you need to go back to the basics.
So, how do you do this? By cutting down your routine to a simple, extremely boring regimen with little room for shake-ups, so your skin can find it’s baseline again. If you suspect your skin has been overworked and you want a more tailored approach for a fast-track of healing, see an esthetician to create a customized regimen specific to your skin’s needs. For those that want to give it a go themselves, follow the general guideline below. You’ll need a simple routine, morning and night, for a minimum of two weeks before you expect to see any improvement. If after 6 weeks you don’t see any improvement, you may need to see an esthetician for further professional guidance. It takes patience, but it can be done.
Cleansers
First up is a gentle cleanser, think as basic as possible. You’ll still want to double cleanse to fully remove any makeup, sweat, and buildup from the day, though keep it simple- no acids or exfoliants in your cleansers! What you’ll want to search for in your cleansers is hypoallergenic, irritant-free, and non-stripping ingredients. There are plenty of gentle cleansers out there from Cerave Hydrating Cleanser to Revision’s Gentle Foaming Cleanser, which is pH-balanced to ensure best chances of skin rebalancing. Think a creamy cleanser if you’re feeling tight and dry, or a gentle foaming cleanser if you still get breakouts and get quite oily throughout the day.
Exfoliators
None. I mean it, none for at least two weeks. You likely overdid the exfoliation, and your skin needs a break. At the two week mark, you can try to use one mild exfoliating product for just one night to test the waters. Wait three days after this test to determine if your skin liked it or still needs more time to heal on its own. What counts as a mild exfoliant? A low percentage AHA, like lactic or malic acid, or even glycolic in a very low percentage may be okay. I’d advise to avoid any BHA (salicylic acid) for this, or retinol/retinol derivatives, as they can both create flakiness that may interrupt this tricky moisture barrier healing process.
Toners
Next, you’ll want to cut out all toners from your routine. I know, you love your toner and the feeling it gives you. Toners have their time and place, but right now we are simplifying, and the simple fact is that toners are not necessary to heal a damaged acid mantle. Most toners are drying, and for those that aren’t, they could be hiding some sneaky ingredients that can interfere with the skin’s natural functioning. Let’s stay safe and avoid toners altogether. While we’re at it, avoid all sprays, essences, refreshing mists, etc. until the skin is healed. There are often added fragrances or other irritants snuck into these products, which are far from helpful when you’re on a skin-healing journey.
Serums
You’ll want to apply the same thinking to serums, with one exception. Hyaluronic acid is a sensitive skin-safe ingredient that acts as a humectant to keep moisture in the skin longer, which is exactly what we want when healing the barrier. A drugstore favorite of mine is Naturium’s Quadruple Hyaluronic Acid Serum 5%. Avoid the ever-popular The Ordinary Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5 Hydrating Serum at all costs.
Although it has the word “acid” in it, Hyaluronic does not act as a traditional acid. An actual acid you should avoid during this process, though? Vitamin C. Yes, Vitamin C is the holy grail for protecting the skin from free-radical damage while also giving brightening benefits, but it is also an acid with a pH that can disrupt your skin in its already fragile state. Hold off on your Vitamin C until your acid mantle is repaired. Once your skin is visibly healthy, you may slowly reintroduce it into your routine slowly.
Moisturizers
Finally, we get to the star of this process. The right moisturizer can be the ultimate factor in whether you’re able to heal your moisture barrier or create more damage. What you want to search for is a gentle yet not too heavy moisturizer, ideally one with ceramides. Ceramides are naturally occurring lipids in the skin’s uppermost layer that are integral to a properly functioning acid mantle. Ceramides are often used in products for eczema or severely dry or sensitive skin.
All skin types can benefit from ceramides, but it will particularly help heal dehydrated skin in need of replenishment. A favorite? La Roche-Posay Touleraine Double Repair Moisturizer, which also contains a tiny bit of niacinamide. While careful not to overdo, niacinamide in small quantities can help balance excessive sebum production, which will help with confused dehydrated-yet-oily skin. I don’t suggest a separate niacinamide serum, which is much more than needed and can send your skin deeper into overdrive. Keep it simple and you’ll be surprised at how quickly you can turn your skin around.
Sunscreens
Always finish off with a sunscreen for the daytime. Stick with a fragrance-free, mineral-based SPF for maximum gentleness, or any you’ve used in the past without any irritation. Sunscreen is always important, damaged acid mantle or not.
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